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Seoul Insider’s Guide

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Contents TRAVEL SEOUL MAKE IT HAPPEN 02

ABOUT SEOUL

04

ESSENTIAL TRAVEL INFORMATION

06

TRANSPORTATION INFORMATION

08

RECOMMENDED ITINERARIES

10

TOP 5 EXPERIENCES IN SEOUL

TRAVEL SEOUL LIKE A LOCAL 14

GWANGHWAMUN & JONGNO & CITY HALL

17 MYEONG-DONG 20

HONGDAE & SINCHON

22 ITAEWON 24 DONGDAEMUN 26 GANGNAM 29

OTHER AREAS

31

MAP

32

INDEX

Published by Lonely Planet Magazine Korea & Seoul Metropolitan Government Editor in Chief Hur Tae-woo Editor Yoo Mi-jung Designer Kwon Kye-hyun Photographer Cho Ji-young, Lee Gyu-yeol Translator Park Ji-sun Copy Editor Radu Hadrian Hotinceanu Publication date November 1, 2015 © The Seoul Insider’s Guide was produced by Lonely Planet Magazine Korea. The Seoul Metropolitan Government has had no influence over the contents of this publication. Reproduction in whole or in part is prohibited without permission. 02

* MORE TOURIST INFORMATION The official travel guide to Seoul website (visitseoul. net) offers plenty of travel information on Seoul, including recommended themed tour courses, transportation, accommodation, must-goto restaurants, and tour programs.

Travel Seoul Make It Happen About Seoul * Essential Travel Information * Transportation Information * Recommended Itineraries * Top 5 Experiences in Seoul

01

About Seoul

in March. Summer (June-August) is sweltering and humid, and a very heavy rainy (monsoon) season comes around mid-July. The average temperature in August, the hottest month of the year, is 27°C. Autumn reaches its peak in October, when the leaves turn red and yellow. The temperature plummets during the winter season (December-February). The best seasons for visiting are spring and autumn.

AREA & POPULATION HISTORY Seoul City, the capital of the Republic of Korea (South Korea) and the nation’s largest metropolis, has developed into a political, economic, and cultural hub over a period spanning back to prehistoric times. The city was not named Seoul until August 15, 1945, the National Liberation Day — it had been called “Hanyang” during the Joseon Dynasty and “Gyeongseongbu” during the Japanese colonial rule. Seoul was designated as a capital city in 1948, when the Government of the Republic of Korea was established, and gained the current official name of Seoul Special City in 1949. The economic development that followed during the 1960s has evolved the city into the present economic center of Korea. Seoul has enhanced its international competitiveness in fields such as finance and high-tech IT and has become a global hub for trading and logistics based on its outstanding transportation system. By virtue of these accomplishments, Seoul is now internationally recognized as the business hub of Northeast Asia.

GEOGRAPHY Seoul is located in the midwestern part of the Korean Peninsula, at 37° 34´ north latitude and 126° 59´ east longitude. The Hangang traverses the city from east to west. Surrounded by mountains such as Bukhansan, Gwanaksan, and Dobongsan, Seoul displays a basin topography. The city is divided into 25 gu (autonomous administrative districts); the downtown mainly consists of Jung-gu and Sejong-daero at Jongno-gu.

WEATHER Seoul has four distinct seasons. Spring begins 02

Seoul comprises an area of 605.15km2. It accounts for only 0.6% of the Korean territory, but has a population of 10.4 million (as of June 2015), one-fifth of the Republic of Korea’s total population.

CULTURE Seoul has hosted the 1986 Asian Games, 1988 Summer Olympics, 2002 FIFA World Cup, 2010 G-20 Seoul Summit, and 2012 Nuclear Security Summit. A cosmopolitan city in every sense of the world, Seoul is the cultural center of Korea, boasting numerous museums, galleries, libraries, newspaper companies, concert halls, and broadcasting companies. Hallyu (Korean Wave), an initial step in the export of contemporary Korean culture overseas to countries in Asia, the Americas, and Europe, was first driven by K-Pop and K-Drama. International audiences who have come to know Korea through music, movies, and soap operas are now visiting Korea to discover in person Seoul’s various attractions. The city has met this increase in the number of visitors with provision of convenient facilities in and around the popular tourist destinations.

03

Essential Travel Information PASSPORT & VISA All visitors to the Republic of Korea should possess a valid passport. With the exception of citizens from countries that have visa waiver agreements with the Republic of Korea, tourists must apply for a single entry visa, which allows a stay of 90 days from the date of issue. For details on visa exemption countries and period of stay, please visit www.hikorea. go.kr.

daily budget is expected to be at least \100,000 when using business hotels, midrange restaurants, and public transportation.

TAX REFUNDS VAT can be refunded when more than \30,000 was spent in any shop with a “Tax Free” sign. Upon leaving the country, visit the customs declaration office at Incheon International Airport with your passport, receipts, and purchased items before the check-in to get a confirmation stamp; or use the kiosk machine.

ELECTRICITY 220V, 60Hz.

EMERGENCY CALLS Police — 112 Fire & Ambulance — 119 Tourist Information — 1330 Seoul Information (Dasan Call Center) — 120

TIME DIFFERENCE

COUNTRY CODE

South Korea is nine hours ahead of GMT/UTC.

+82

CURRENCY

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS

The South Korean unit of currency is the won (\). Notes come in denominations of \1,000, \5,000, \10,000, and \50,000; in the case of coins, \10, \50, \100, and \500 are used.

New Year’s Day — January 1 Lunar New Year’s Day — January 1 (lunar calendar) Independence Movement Day — March 1 Children’s Day — May 5 Buddha’s Birthday — April 8 (lunar calendar) Memorial Day — June 6 Liberation Day — August 15 Chuseok — August 15 (lunar calendar) National Foundation Day — October 3 Hangul Proclamation Day — October 9 Christmas Day — December 25

CHANGING MONEY & EXCHANGE RATES A Korean currency note of \10,000 equals about US$8.5 (as of October 2015). Most banks offer a currency exchange service (working hours 9am-4pm). There are also licensed money changers around the downtown areas near Myeong-dong or Itaewon, which are popular tourist destinations.

USEFUL KOREAN EXPRESSIONS 안녕하세요(an·nyŏng·ha·se·yo). — Hello.

CREDIT CARDS & ATMs

고맙습니다(ko·map·sŭm·ni·da). — Thank you.

Most of the accommodation, dining, shopping, and leisure venues accept credit cards such as Visa, MasterCard, AmEx. ATMs are easily found throughout Seoul. Cash machines with a “Global ATM” sign offer multi-lingual services.

미안합니다(mi·an·ham·ni·da). — Sorry. 실례합니다(shil·lé·ham·ni·da). — Excuse me. 안녕히 가세요(an·nyŏng·hi ka·se·yo). — Goodbye. 얼마예요(ŏl·ma·ye·yo)? — How much is it? 맛있어요(ma·shi·ssŏ·yo)! — It’s delicious! 길을 잃었어요(ki·rŭl·i·rŏss·ŏ·yo). — I am lost.

PRICES

네(né). — Yes.

Prices in Seoul are relatively high compared to major cities throughout the world. A traveler’s

아니요(a·ni·yo). — No.

04

05

Transportation Information GETTING THERE Many airlines offer direct flights from major Asian cities—Singapore, Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur, Jakarta, Hanoi, Hong Kong, etc.—to Incheon International Airport.

FROM THE AIRPORT TO SEOUL AIRPORT EXPRESS TRAIN Airport Express is the fastest way to get to Seoul Station from the Incheon International Airport. The express train runs non-stop to Seoul Station (43 min.). The airport railroad express station is directly connected to the airport. Fares from \3,950; arex.or.kr * T-money Card is a rechargeable transportation card which can pay bus, subway, and taxi fares in Seoul and the surrounding Gyeonggi-do Province. Fares vary with the distance traveled, and transferring charges between buses and subways are free up to five transfers. The card can be easily purchased and charged at subway stations or in convenience stores.

AIRPORT BUS There are two types of buses that provide service to Incheon International Airport: deluxe and standard. Deluxe buses, including Korean Air Lines (KAL) limousines, stop at major hotels in Seoul. Standard buses stop at various locations throughout Seoul. T-money cards are accepted. Tickets from \9,000; calt.co.kr TAXI Four types of taxis provide service to Incheon International Airport: regular, deluxe (highpriced), international (foreign languages available), and jumbo (capacity of up to eight people). Every taxi has a meter, and a \6,600 toll (in the case of small cars) for the Incheon International Expressway is added to the fare. International taxis provide fixed fares, which start from \55,000. Credit cards and T-money 06

cards are accepted. For details, inquire at the airport information desk. 1644 2255; internationaltaxi.co.kr

GETTING AROUND SEOUL BUS Three types of buses operate in Seoul: blue buses, which connect the outer areas to the inner city; green buses, which connect inner city neighborhoods; and small green buses (local buses), which go around neighborhoods; Bus numbers and routes are posted at each bus stop. For more information on bus stops and routes, check the “Seoul Bus” mobile application. Basic fares start from \1,000 (local), \1,300 (blue and green). SUBWAY Seoul’s nine subway lines are distinguished by colors. You can purchase a single journey ticket at all subway stations with a \500 refundable deposit. The deposit will be returned when you insert the ticket in the Deposit Refund Device after reaching your destination. A single journey ticket cannot be used when transferring to a bus. Basic fare \1,250. TAXI Regular taxis have a basic charge of \3,000 for 2km. A 20% surcharge is levied between midnight and 4am. Deluxe taxis cost \5,000 for the first 3km. International taxis must be reserved in advance through the website. CAR HIRE Lotte Rent-a-Car and AJ Rent-a-Car offer car rental services at Incheon International Airport. You can hire a car at the airport rental desks or make a reservation through the websites listed here. From \95,000 a day; Lotte Rent-a-Car 032 743 8000, lotterentacar.net; AJ Rent-a-Car 032 743 3307, ajrentacar.co.kr SEOUL CITY TOUR BUS Seoul City Tour buses run between Seoul’s top tourist attractions. A ticket allows you to get on and off a tour bus at any destination during a single day. Tickets from \12,000; 02 777 6090; seoulcitybus.com, gangnamtour.go.kr

07

Recommended Itineraries STOPOVER

TWO NIGHTS AND THREE DAYS

DAY 1 Korean handicraft shops and hanok (traditional Korean houses) brunch cafes dot the small alleys of Samcheong-dong and Gahoe-dong. Satisfy your appetite at Tongin Market, a typical traditional market, before turning your steps to the Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park (DDP). Visit exhibitions and shop for artistic items there. Keep shopping at the Dongdaemun night market: fashion accessories and delicious foods are on offer.

HALF DAY Take the airport express train to the Digital Media City (DMC) and Hongik University (Hongdae). Apply for the IT tour at DMC, where high-tech exhibits are on show, then head to the nearby World Cup Park. Check out Hongdae, a neighborhood that abounds in sophisticated cafes, restaurants, and fashion shops; young artists from the famed nearby university regularly gather here. ONE DAY Visit Myeong-dong or the downtown City Hall area by airport bus. These districts make good bases for looking around the tourist attractions at Gwanghwamun and Jongno. Hop on the Seoul City Tour Bus departing from Gwanghwamun and look around Insa-dong, Gyeongbokgung, Itaewon, Hanok Village, Namsan, the N Seoul Tower, etc. 08

DAY 2 Take the Gangnam City Tour Bus for shopping in the Gangnam area. Spend the evening at Namsan Park, where the nearby Grand Hyatt Hotel Seoul operates an ice rink every winter. It is one of the most romantic places to enjoy the night view of Seoul while listening to beautiful music. DAY 3 Myeong-dong is a top shopping district, where you can find the fashion and beauty trends that drive Hallyu. It takes at least a half-day to look around Myeong-dong’s department stores, duty free shops, and road shops. Stores at the neighboring Namdaemun Market deal in everything from groceries to household items.

THREE NIGHTS AND FOUR DAYS

DAY 1 Start your trip at the old palaces—the landmarks of downtown Seoul. You can reserve different Seoul Walking Guide tours at visitseoul.net, if a guided-tour is needed. Enjoy late-night shopping in Insa-dong, Samcheongdong, Daehangno, and Dongdaemun, which are located close to the palaces. Experience the energy of the night markets. DAY 2 Have brunch on Sinsa-dong’s Garosu-gil street in the morning, then walk around the busy nearby streets of Gangnam. If you are lucky, you can spot Hallyu stars in Cheongdam-dong and Apgujeong—the stomping grounds of the famous. Scan the city’s night view from the N Seoul Tower to wrap up a great day. DAY 3 A large number of creative artists live in Hongdae, an area dotted by stylish cafes, restaurants, and handicraft workshops. Stroll around the Yeonnam-dong, Sangsu-dong, and Hapjeong-dong neighborhoods and look around the local designers’ gorgeous

workshops. At night, party it up in Hongdae’s glamorous clubs and live-music bars. DAY 4 Head to Itaewon for a cosmopolitan atmosphere. Explore Hannam-dong’s highend restaurants, galleries, and selection shops before taking a stroll along the youthful streets of Gyeongridan-gil, a concentration of Seoul’s trendiest dessert cafes, restaurants, and bars. The night in Itaewon is lively and cheerful; people from all over the world come to mix in exclusive bars and casual pubs, which stay open till late. DAY 5 Spend a day on Yeouido Island, located beside the Hangang River. The ’63 Building’ commands a magnificent view over the city and has a gallery, a movie theater, and restaurants in its culture complex, named ’63 Square.’ The IFC Mall (a large shopping center) is conveniently sited near the 63 Building. Night cruises can be booked at the Yeouido Quay; the cruise ships offer fantastic night views of Hangang River and the city. 09

Top 5 Experiences in Seoul Food

Shopping

Acquaint yourself with the Korean food culture by trying out hansik (Korean food) and various types of traditional Korean food at restaurants in the city’s famed food alleys.

Every shopping district in Seoul has a distinct character. Visit popular shopping spots to discover the latest in fashion and beauty trends. GAROSU-GIL Hipsters can be spotted walking the streets here; check out the local boutiques and exclusive shops.

FOOD ALLEYS Gwangjang Market and Tongin Market are two of Seoul’s signature food alleys. Sindang-dong tteok-bokki (Stir-fried Rice Cake) and Jangchung-dong jokbal (pig’s trotters boiled with soy sauce and spices) are popular choices among the various foods sold in the food alleys. CHICKEN & BEER, MAKGEOLLI & JEON Korean-style seasoned fried chicken with beer, and makgeolli (a traditional fermented rice wine) with jeon (pancake-like dishes) are favorite drinks and side dishes among Koreans.

10

DESSERT CAFES Seoul boasts a seeming endless selection of dessert cafes, from traditional Korean teahouses that serve traditional teas and rice cakes to trendy Western-style cafes that sell macarons and cakes. FINE DINING RESTAURANTS Savor delectable dishes made with exquisite ingredients in local celebrity chefs’ restaurants. HANSIK Try out hanjeongsik (a traditional Korean course) and hansik dishes such as bibimbap (rice mixed with vegetables, beef, and gochujang— a hot red pepper paste).

MYEONG-DONG Find the K-designs that drive the Hallyu in Myeong-dong, home to the major fashion brand shops. NAMDAEMUN & DONGDAEMUN MARKETS The friendly atmosphere of traditional Korean markets is maintained at these two sizable markets. INSA-DONG Traditional handicraft shops, as well as modern ones, line the street of Insa-dong. HONGDAE FREE MARKET Stop by the free, open art market, where young artists showcase their creations. Open on Saturdays.

Hallyu

Beauty

Discover the city’s landmarks featured in K-dramas and trace the steps of the screen celebrities by taking the Hallyu Tour.

Korean beauty tours focus mostly on medical tours at dermatology clinics; however, some hotels and department stores have started operating exclusive beauty programs for visiting tourists.

K-POP ROAD Hallyu stars can be spotted on K-Pop Road in Cheongdamdong, where entertainment agencies such as SM, JYP, and CUBE are located. K-POP SHOPPING YG Shop and SMTOWN Coex Artium sell goods related to their idol stars. TRADITIONAL KOREAN CULTURE Get familiar with traditional Korean culture by experiencing kimchi making, tea ceremonies, and Korean calligraphy, and wearing a hanbok (Traditional Korean Dress). K-DRAMA LOCATION TOUR Visit the various filming locations for K-Dramas.

Night Life Seoul has an abundance of 24-hour cafes, bars, and clubs. Dine under the city’s brightly-lit nightscape, then mingle with the locals in trendy and lively entertainment venues. OBSERVATORIES The N Seoul Tower and the 63 Building are classic vantage points for savoring the brilliant night views over Seoul. HANGANG FERRY CRUISE DINNER Reserve a place on the river cruise, which includes a buffet dinner and jazz performance.

COSMETIC ROAD SHOPS Shopping at local drugstores and cosmetic road shops such as MISSHA and THE FACE SHOP is almost a necessity for most travelers. MEDICAL TOUR Seoul is a famous medical tourism hub, known for up-todate medical techniques and offered at reasonable prices.

BEER PUB ALLEYS Enjoy the night in the beer pubs scattered around the alleys of Jongno and Gangnam.

WELLNESS Wellness tours emphasize exercise, nutrition, and rest achieved by activities such as visits to spas, massages, and Temple Stay programs.

CLUBBING Trendy clubs are concentrated in Hongdae, Itaewon, and Gangnam. Groove to the music with locals.

SKILLED BEAUTY CARE Upgrade your style at local nail care shops, oriental medical spas, and beauty salons. 11

12

Travel Seoul Like a Local Gwanghwamun & Jongno & City Hall * Myeong-dong * Hongdae & Sinchon * Itaewon * Dongdaemun * Gangnam * Other Areas

13

Gwanghwamun & Jongno & City Hall Take a walk through the tranquil courtyards of old palaces, then visit art exhibitions and sample traditional foods in the heart of Seoul, where the historic places cohabit with modern culture venues. wrapped in pink, green, or yellow dumpling skins. i manduguk \12,000; 12, Baekseokdong-gil, Jongno-gu; 02 379 2648

TONGIN MARKET & GWANGJANG MARKET 통인시장 & 광장시장 A Dosirak (lunchbox) cafe is located in the Tongin Market; at this market, you can purchase yeopjeon (brass coins with a square hole in the middle) and use them as currency to pay for various foods at participating stores. Gwangjang Market is famous for bindae-tteok (Mung-Bean Pancake). i Tongin Market yeopjeon \5,000 (for 10 coins), bindae-tteok \5,000; 18, Jahamun-ro 15-gil,

Gyeongbokgung Station

Gwanghwamun Station

Jonggak Station

Euljiro 3-ga Station City Hall Station

200

Jongno-gu (Tongin Market), 02 722 0911 / 88, Changgyeonggung-ro, Jongno-gu (Gwangjang Market), 02 2267 0291

400 m

EAT TOSOKCHON 토속촌 The seasonal samgyetang (Ginseng Chicken Soup) is made with a whole young To chicken stuffed with glutinous so kcho n rice, chestnuts, jujubes, ginseng, etc. The restaurant’s aromatic chicken broth and tasty meat can re-energize the body. i samgyetang \15,000; 5, Jahamun-ro 5-gil, Jongno-gu; 02 737 7444

BALWOO GONGYANG 발우공양 This temple-style vegetarian cuisine restaurant offers a multitude of vegetable side dishes seasoned with its unique doenjang (fermented soybean paste) and gochujang (chili pepper paste). i Baramilsang (10 dishes) \27,500; 56, Ujeongguk-ro, Jongno-gu; 02 2031 2081

GOGUNG 고궁 The restaurant specializes in bibimbap. Dolsotbibimbap (Hot Stone Pot Bibimbap) is a popular dish. i Jeonju bibimbap

JAHA SONMANDU 자하손만두 The signature dish at this restaurant is the manduguk (Korean Dumpling Soup). The soup is boiled with handmade mandu (dumplings) 14

\11,000; 44, Insadonggil, Jongno-gu; 02 736 3211

Gogung

DAWON 다원 This traditional Korean teahouse is located inside the Kyungin Museum of Fine Art. Its specialties are hot quince tea, toasted garaetteok (White Rice Cake), and yugwa (Deep-fried, Sweet Rice Cake). i quince tea \7,000, garaetteok \5,000; 11-4, Insadong 10-gil, Jongno-gu; 02 730 6305 Chundangji Pond at Changgyeonggung Palaces

SEE

i 10am-6pm (closed on Mondays); admission

\4,000; 30, Samcheong-ro, Jongno-gu; 02 3701 9500

GYEONGBOKGUNG PALACE The royal palace built during the Joseon Dynasty period perfectly represents the architectural beauty of the time. Changing of the guard ceremonies are held three times a day (10am, 1pm, 3pm). i 9am-5pm (closed on Tuesdays); admission

\3,000, 161, Sajik-ro, Jongno-gu; 02 3700 3900

SEOUL PLAZA The lawn plaza fronting the City Hall is a comfortable relaxation area for Seoulites. Deoksugung Palace and the new City Hall stand close together. The plaza is used as an outdoor ice-skating rink during winter. i 10am-10pm; ice rink \1,000 (1 session = 1 hour); 110, Sejong-daero, Jung-gu; 02 120

CHANGDEOKGUNG & CHANGGYEONGGUNG PALACES UNESCO World Heritage Changdeokgung Palace has beautiful gardens and ponds; its walking trail is connected to Changyeonggung Palace.

JONGMYO ROYAL SHRINE & CHEONGGYECHEON STREAM Jongmyo is a royal shrine which houses the spirit tablets of the Joseon kings and is dedicated to the national performance of ancestral rites. Cheonggyecheon, a stream that flows through Jongno and Gwanghwamun, is lit up with colorful lights at night. i 9am-5:30pm; admission \1,000; 157, Jongro, Jongno-gu (Jongmyo); 02 3672 4332 / 1, Cheonggyecheon-ro, Jung-gu (Cheonggyecheon); 02 2290 7111

JOGYESA TEMPLE This Buddhist temple is located in the downtown area, close to the Cheonggyecheon Stream, Insa-dong, and Jongno. Giant golden Buddha statues are housed inside Daeungjeon, the grand, main building of the temple. i 55, Ujeongguk-ro, Jongno-gu; 02 768 8600

185, Changgyeonggung-ro, Jongno-gu

BUKCHON HANOK VILLAGE Bukchon, meaning “north village,” is home to many hanok (traditional Korean houses) that showcase the 600-year history of Seoul. Royal family members and sadaebu (bureaucrats and educated scholars) of the Joseon Dynasty lived here because of the proximity to the palaces.

(Changgyeonggung Palace), 02 762 4868

i 37, Gyedong-gil, Jongno-gu; 02 2133 1371

THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART, SEOUL This art and culture complex mainly displays modern art. The museum has a spacious garden, and each exhibit hall is connected by outdoor passages.

GWANGHWAMUN SQUARE Statues of Admiral Yi Sun-shin and King Sejong the Great stand symbolically in the 34-meterwide and 555-meter-long square stretching from Gwanghwamun to Cheonggye Square.

i 9am-5:30pm (closed on Mondays);

admission \3,000 (Changdeokgung Palace),

\1,000 (Changgyeonggung Palace); 99, Yulgok-ro, Jongno-gu (Changdeokgung Palace), 02 762 8261 /

i 172, Sejong-daero, Jongno-gu; 02 120 15

SHOP

STAY SSAMZIE-GIL The outdoor passages of this four-story complex give the feeling of walking along Insa-dong’s alleys. The complex has about 70 handicraft shops, including small-sized workshops. i 10:30am-8:30pm; 44,

Ssamzie-gil

Insadong-gil, Jongno-gu; 02 736 0088

KCDF GALLERY The gallery shop showcases and sells some of the finest products made by local artisans, designers, and craftsmen. These include household items, pottery, and woodwork that combine traditional and contemporary style elements. i 10am-7pm; 8, Insadong 11-gil, Jongno-gu;

02 733 9041

MYEONGGAJAE This simple and neat hanok guesthouse has a small garden and rooms decorated with themes related to the four seasons. i from \150,000; 3-4, Bukchon-ro, 9-gil, Jongno-gu; 02 763 6979; myeonggajae.com

THE PLAZA The five-star hotel nearby City Hall and Deoksugung Palace is also located in the vicinity of large shopping malls such as the Lotte Department Store and Noon Square. i from \300,000; 119, Sogong-ro, Jung-gu; 02 771 2200, hoteltheplaza.com

RAKKOJAE This beautifully restored hanok has a 130year history. The exclusive guesthouse offers delicious hansik and experience programs for traditional performances and tea ceremonies. i from \275,000; 49-23 gyedong-gil, Jongno-gu; 02 742 3410; rkj.co.kr

KYOBO BOOK CENTER The flagship branch of Korea’s largest bookstore sells books as well as K-Pop CDs, stationery, and gifts; a food court and cafes are located inside the bookstore. i 9:30am-10pm; 1, Jong-ro, Jongno-gu;

1544 1900

MMMIO HOUSE The guesthouse was renovated from an old house; it has nine rooms with views of Cheonggyecheon Stream and the N Seoul Tower. i from \33,000; 229, Cheonggyecheon-ro, Jongno-gu; 070 8146 1400; mmmiohouse.com

KIEHL’S BOUTIQUE The boutique offers customized beauty services in the form of one-to-one consultations with beauty specialists. It sells limited-edition Kiehl products not found in department stores.

THE WESTIN CHOSUN SEOUL The high-end hotel, located near the City Hall Subway Station, has five restaurants, cafes, and a hanok-style outdoor pavilion. i from \330,000; 106, Sogong-ro, Jung-gu;

i 11am-9:30pm; 56-8, Bukchon-ro 5-gil, Jongno-

02 771 0500; echosunhotel.com

gu; 02 723 1851

INSADONG MARU About 60 designer shops are concentrated in this cultural complex. Everything sold here— from foods to handicraft, design, fashion—are representative products made in Korea. i 10:30am-8:30pm; 35-4, 6, Insadong-gil,

Jongno-gu; 02 2223 2500 16

SOMERSET PALACE SEOUL The residence hotel located near Gwanghwamun offers suites with a living room, bedroom, kitchen, and laundry room. i from \200,000; 7, Yulgok-ro 2-gil, Jongno-gu; 02 6730 8888; somersetpalace.co.kr

Myeong-dong Myeong-dong is a well-known shopping destination where each alley is packed with a variety of shops. The area is at the heart of the cultural, artistic, and economic center of Seoul. Myeong-dong’s shops, which carry the latest fashion trends, are spread around historic buildings that preserve Seoul’s modern culture history.

i galbi-jjim \17,000; 19-1, Chungmu-ro, Jung-gu;

02 2267 0955

N GRILL A Michelin one-star chef prepares the grilled cuisine at N Gill. The rotating restaurant is located on the top floor of the N Seoul Tower, and it provides a panoramic, 360° view of Seoul. i dinner from \95,000; 105, Namsangongwon-

Euljiro1(il)-ga Station

Chungmuro Station Myeong-dong Station

gil, Yongsan-gu; 02 3455 9297

Dongguk Univ. Station

O SULLOC TEA HOUSE The cafe serves desserts and drinks made with high-quality green tea leaves grown in Jejudo Island. Green tea latte with green tea, chocolate, and milk is highly recommended. i green tea latte \5,500; 12, Myeongdong 7-gil,

Seoul Station

Jung-gu; 02 774 5460 0

200 400

MOKMYEOKSANBANG 목멱산방 The traditional-style restaurant with a view of the Namsan Mountain serves traditional Korean foods such as bibimbap and makgeolli. Tasty, brewed Korean teas are also recommended at this wooden restaurant. i sanbang bibimbap \7,000; 125-72,

m

EAT MYEONG-DONG GYOJA 명동교자 The restaurant’s signature dish is kal-guksu (noodles boiled in a chicken broth with meat, dumplings, and vegetables). The popularity of the eatery means there are always long queues of customers waiting for a table. i kalguksu \8,000, 29, Myeongdong 10-gil,

Namsangongwon-gil, Jung-gu; 02 318 4790

HADONGKWAN 하동관 Only two dishes are offered here: gomtang (slowly simmered soup made with beef bones, brisket, etc.) and suyuk (boiled beef or pork slices). Gomtang is made with Korean beef and is said to re-invigorate the body. i gomtang \13,000; 12, Myeongdong 9-gil,

Jung-gu; 02 776 5348

JINGOGAE 진고개 This 50-year-old restaurant is famous for galbi-jjim (Braised Short Ribs) and gejang (Marinated Crabs).

Jung-gu; 02 776 5656

ga

e Ji n

go

17

SEE SUNGNYEMUN GATE National Treasure No. 1, Sungnyemun (also known as Namdaemun) Gate was the symbol of Seoul during the Joseon Dynasty, being the biggest gate of the time. It was destroyed by fire in an arson incident in 2008 and subsequently restored closer to its original form; the reconstruction was completed in 2013. i 40, Sejong-daero, Jung-gu

N SEOUL TOWER The tower atop the Namsan Mountain is one of the city’s landmarks. The cable car that runs from the base of the Namsan Mountain to the tower is a smart choice for a panoramic view of Seoul. i 10am-11pm; cable car \8,500 rtn.; 105, Namsangongwon-gil, Yongsan-gu; 02 3455 9277

CULTURE STATION SEOUL 284 This Renaissance-style building was built in 1925 and housed the former Seoul Station. It was converted into a cultural complex with an exhibition hall in 2011, and is now open to the public as a cultural space. i 10am-7pm; 1, Tongil-ro, Jung-gu; 02 3407 3500

NAMSANGOL HANOK VILLAGE This park was created when five different yangban (ruling class or gentry of the Joseon Dynasty) houses were moved at the foot of the Namsan Mountain. Korean folk games, traditional music performances, and traditional culture classes are held on its premises. i 9am-8pm (closed on Tuesdays); 28, Toegye-ro

34-gil, Jung-gu, 02 2261 0511 Culture Station Seoul 284

MYEONG-DONG CATHEDRAL This is Korea’s first catholic parish church; its majestic Gothic-style building is one of the city’s landmarks. People enjoy taking a break in St. Mary’s Garden, located in the cathedral’s backyard. i 9am-9pm; 74, Myeongdong-gil, Jung-gu;

02 774 1784

NATIONAL THEATER OF KOREA The theater was founded by the Korean government in 1950 in the hope of developing the local theater scene. Most of the performances held here are related to traditional Korean art. The permanent performance “Midday Concert” is a renowned traditional Korean music concert with commentary. i 9am-6pm; 59, Jangchungdan-ro, Jung-gu;

02 2280 4114; ntok.go.kr

SHOP NOON SQUARE Each floor (B2-8F) of this shopping complex is packed with fashion and cosmetic brand shops, movie theaters, and restaurants, and even a bookstore. Shop, eat, or just have a rest at one of the building’s many venues. i 11am-10pm; 14, Myeongdong-gil, Jung-gu;

02 3783 5005

LOTTE DEPARTMENT STORE & DUTY FREE SHOP Lotte has several buildings in Myeong-dong: Young Plaza carries fashion brands for the young, while Avenuel deals in luxury brands. Duty-free shops are located on the 9th to 11th floors of the main department store building. i 10:30am-9pm; 81, Namdaemun-ro, Jung-gu;

02 771 2500; Duty Free Shop 9:30am-9pm

NAMDAEMUN MARKET A good number of stores at the market sell everything from household goods and groceries to bags and cameras. Daedo Mall, E Mall (an imported goods mall), and C Mall are recommended. 18

STAY SEOUL BACKPACKERS This accommodation for visiting backpackers offers simple rooms with basic facilities. Its location offers convenient access to Myeongdong, Namsan, and Seoul Station by public transportation. i from \50,000; 15-3, Toegye-ro 2-gil, Jung-gu; 02 3672 1972; seoulbackpackers.com

Myeong-dong

i 6am-6:30pm (closed on Sundays); 21,

Namdaemunsijang 4-gil, Jung-gu; 02 753 2805

SHINSEGAE DEPARTMENT STORE This is Korea's first Western-style department store, opened in the early 1960s. The building retains a modernist architectural style on the exterior, but its interior is contemporary and luxurious. i 10:30am-8pm; 63, Sogong-ro, Jung-gu;

1588 1234

SHILLA DUTY FREE SHOP Hotel Shilla operates luxury duty free shops on three floors of its building. From here, free shuttle buses run around downtown Seoul areas, including Myeong-dong, Itaewon, and Gwanghwamun. i 9:30am-9pm; 249, Dongho-ro, Jung-gu;

1688 1110

OLIVE YOUNG FLAGSHIP STORE The cosmetic multi-shop deals in various domestic and foreign cosmetics and provides a space for customers to try its cosmetic products.

SHILLA HOTEL SEOUL The hotel is famous for traditional Korean-style accommodation spaces; many state guests have stayed and numerous international events have been held here. The hotel also operates duty free shops. i from \300,000; 249, Dongho-ro, Jung-gu; 02 2233 3131; shillahotels.com

BANYAN TREE CLUB & SPA SEOUL Each room provides views of Namsan Mountain at this urban resort located at the foot of the mountain. Its relaxing spa programs are well-known throughout the city. i from \460,000; 60, Jangchungdan-ro, Jung-gu; 02 2250 8080; banyantreeclub.com

METRO HOTEL The hotel, located at the center of Myeongdong, opened in 1960 and was the first tourist hotel in Korea. Renovated rooms have chic decorations and provide nice views. i from \88,000; 14, Myeongdong 9ga-gil, Junggu; 02 752 1112; metrohotel.com

SMALL HOUSE BIG DOOR This boutique hotel has a bistro and a gallery on the 1st floor. It offers simple and neat rooms with minimalist-style furniture. i from \93,000; 6, Namdaemunro 9-gil, Jung-gu; 02 2038 8191; smallhousebigdoor.com

i 10am-10:30pm; 53, Myeongdong-gil, Jung-gu;

02 736 5290 19

Hongdae & Sinchon Cafes, clubs, underground music, a free market, indie culture— Hongdae is always referred to with one of these words. The streets of Hongdae pulsate with young energy and generate Korea’s latest trends.

Hongik Univ. Station

Sinchon Station

Hapjeong Station

200

Sangsu Station

400 m

EAT MUDAERUK 무대륙 At this restaurant and bar you can enjoy jazz, classical, traditional Korean music, as well as live performances by indie bands. The 2nd floor is used as a workroom for artists. i draft beer from \5,000; 12, Tojeong-ro 5-gil,

Samgeori Pujutgan

SLOBBIE The restaurant is adored by tourists, as well as Seoulites who live alone. It serves healthy food made with fresh ingredients and vegetables in season, grown in the restaurant’s private garden. The menu changes daily. i from \8,000; 10, Hongik-ro 6-gil, Mapo-gu; 02 3143 5525

MULDWINDA 물뛴다 This pub serves traditional Korean alcoholic drinks brewed at their own facilities, as well as side dishes such as buchujeon (Asian Chives Pancake) and grilled tofu. The atmosphere Jazz music played in the background gives the locale a unique feeling. i makgeolli from \8,000; 43, Kyonggidae-ro, Seodaemun-gu; 02 392 4200

Mapo-gu; 02 332 8333; mudaeruk.com

SAMGEORI PUJUTGAN 삼거리 푸줏간 Try some Korean BBQ at this sophisticated restaurant run by YG Entertainment. It also provides a separate pub space, which has a nice selection of beer. i one plate of pujutgan \33,000; 72, Wausan-ro,

aA DESIGN MUSEUM CAFE The cafe is located inside the aA Design Museum, a design furniture gallery whose owner showcases Korean and European furniture that he has collected for the past 20 years. i coffee from \5,000; 19-18, Wausan-ro 17-gil,

Mapo-gu; 02 337 3892

Mapo-gu; 02 3143 7311

20

SEE KT&G SANGSANGMADANG The multi-cultural complex SangsangMadang represents the indie culture of Hongdae. It holds distinguishing modern art exhibitions across various genres, including pop art and media art. The complex also houses an art market and a movie theater. i 12pm-11pm; 65, Eoulmadang-ro, Mapo-gu;

02 330 6200; sangsangmadang.com

MECENAT POLIS MALL This shopping complex located near Hapjeong Subway Station has domestic and foreign cosmetic, fashion, and SPA brand shops, as well as food franchises, movie theaters, and a concert hall. i 10am-10pm; 45, Yanghwa-ro, Mapo-gu;

02 6357 0108

THANKS BOOKS This cozy little bookstore functions as a meeting place for the local community. It deals mainly in design and art books. Book exhibitions are held here regularly. i 12pm-9pm; 28, Jandari-ro, Mapo-gu;

DONGJIN MARKET This art market opens on weekends at the former old market site around Yeonnam-dong. Indie publishers and bookstores, design items shops, and restaurants are clustered in the area.

02 325 0321

i 1pm-7pm; 98, Seongmisan-ro, Mapo-gu;

HONGDAE FREE MARKET Young designers and artists showcase and sell their creations here. Street performances are a common sight at the market.

02 325 9559

i open on Saturdays 1pm-6pm; Hongik

SINCHON PLAY BUS This two-story bus was converted into a music space with a DJ box. Here you can enjoy music from different genres and periods, as well as Internet radio selections.

21-gil, Mapo-gu); freemarket.or.kr

University Playground Park (19-3, Wausan-ro

STAY

i 11am-9pm; 11, Yonsei-ro 5-gil, Seodaemun-gu;

02 330 1806; play.sdm.go.kr

CLUB FF This top live music venue in Hongdae mostly holds rock concerts. Its impressive line-ups include all the hot indie bands in Korea.

MARUJI GUESTHOUSE This remodeled guesthouse is for tourists only. Many charming cafes and galleries are clustered around here. i from \38,000; 30-4, Yeonnam-ro 5-gil, Mapo-

i 12, Wausan-ro 17-gil, Mapo-gu; 010 9025 3407;

gu; 02 6082 5013; marujiguesthouse.com

clubff.modoo.at

SHOP STYLENANDA FLAGSHIP STORE This is a brick and mortar shop belonging to the online clothing shopping mall of the same name, whose clientele is mostly women in their 20s and 30s. it sells cosmetics labeled with the store’s own brand.

HOTEL THE DESIGNERS The hotel’s rooms are decorated by designers according to several themes. A brunch menu with dishes made with organic ingredients is offered at the cafe on the 1st floor. i from \170,000; 86, Yanghwa-ro, Mapo-gu; 02 326 5801; thedesignershotel.com

i 11am-11pm; 23, Wausan-ro 29da-gil, Mapo-gu;

URBANWOOD GUESTHOUSE The guesthouse has rooms decorated with modern furniture, colorful ornaments, and paintings inspired by nature. i from \60,000; 5, Wausan-ro 29ma-gil, Mapo-

02 333 9215

gu; 070 8613 0062; urbanwood.co.kr 21

Itaewon The Itaewon area includes the quiet Hannam-dong, the lively Gyeongridan-gil, which has emerged as a popular hangout place among young people, and the vibrant Haebangchon Art Village, one of the hot spots in Seoul. The area exudes a cosmopolitan, international atmosphere and is home to restaurants that serve foods from around the world. BISTECCA The restaurant is run by one of Korea’s first generation of Italian cuisine chefs. Its signature dish is a steak grilled over oak charcoal. Among the dessert offerings, tiramisu is the most recommended. i lunch course from \35,000; 49, Hoenamu-ro, Yongsan-gu; 02 792 7746 an-g ngrid Gyeo

Noksapyeong Station

100

Hangangjin Station

il

Itaewon Station

200 m

EAT TACO CHILICHILI This Mexican fast-food restaurant is famous for inexpensive prices and generous volumes of food. Tacos, fajitas, burritos, and enchiladas satisfy the tastes of both locals and visitors to the area. i taco from \3,000; 218, Noksapyeong-daero,

WESTERN CHINA This Chinese restaurant, opened in Hannamdong 10 years ago, specializes in dim sum; ha gow is the best seller. i ha gow \6,000; 73, Dokseodang-ro, Yongsangu; 02 795 6751

MAYBELL BAKERY 오월의 종 Maybell bakes healthy bread made with wild yeast. Rye bread and baguettes made from Korean flour, salt, water, and wild yeast are popular choices. i fig rye bread \2,500; 229, Itaewon-ro, Yongsangu; 02 792 5561

LINUS BBQ Linus BBQ serves Alabama-style BBQ meat smoked over low heat for 12 to 16 hours. i BBQ sandwich \12,000; 136-13, Itaewon-ro, Yongsan-gu; 02 790 2920

SEE

Yongsan-gu; 02 797 7219

VATOS The bar serves Korean-Mexican dishes, tacos topped with customer-chosen ingredients, and a variety of co*cktails. i kimchi carnitas fries \12,500; 1, Itaewon-ro 15-gil, Yongsan-gu; 02 797 8226 22

ANTIQUE FURNITURE STREET This street is packed with over 90 shops that sell vintage furniture and interior design items from Europe. i Bogwang-ro, Yongsan-gu (the street that runs

from the Hamilton Hotel to the Crown Hotel); itaewonantique.com

SEOUL CENTRAL MASJID & GYEDAN MARKET The Masjid is the first mosque in Korea built in medieval style, with two minarets. Gyedan Market, a flea market where local artists sell their creations, opens on the last Saturday of every month on the stairs at the back of the mosque.

Millimeter Milligram (MMMG)

i 39, Usadan-ro 10-gil, Yongsan-gu; 02 793 6908;

and quality pet supplies. It also operates a cafe.

facebook.com/wosadan

i 11am-9pm; 244, Itaewon-ro, Yongsan-gu;

02 797 0710

HAEBANGCHON ART VILLAGE The village is decorated with about 30 wall paintings and has an eclectic selection of cafes, restaurants, and bars. i Sinheung-ro, Yongsan-gu (around

MILLIMETER MILLIGRAM (MMMG) This place, run by Korean stationery design brand MMMG, integrates a cafe, a bookstore, and a stationery shop.

Haebangchon); 02 795 2275; arthill100.com

i 11am-9pm; 240, Itaewon-ro, Yongsan-gu;

02 3210 1601

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF KOREA The museum has six galleries devoted to permanent exhibitions with a displayed selection over 13,000 pieces of relics that show Korea’s history and culture.

STAY

i 9am-9pm (closed on Mondays); admission free;

137, Seobinggo-ro, Yongsan-gu; 02 2077 9000; museum.go.kr

SHOP

GRAND HYATT SEOUL The hotel is located on the side of the Namsan Mountain and is known for its spa and Club JJ. The hotel’s outdoor pool is turned into an ice rink during winters. i from \300,000; 322, Sowol-ro, Yongsan-gu; 02 797 1234; seoul.grand.hyatt.com

BEAKER HANNAM FLAGSHIP STORE This selection shop deals in domestic and international brands and features an interior made from recycled materials. The shop sells trendy fashion items and household goods.

G GUESTHOUSE Stay in the company of travelers from around the world at this guesthouse. A weekly BBQ party is held on the building’s rooftop. i from \40,000; 14-38, Bogwang-ro 60-gil,

i 11am-8pm; 241, Itaewon-ro, Yongsan-gu;

Yongsan-gu; 02 795 0015; gguest.com

070 4118 5216

MO JAIN SONG This concept store run by Korean fashion designer Song Ja-in has a sophisticated selection of gardening tools, perfumes, candles, and handmade accessories.

TIGER HOUSE This guesthouse and multi-cultural space offers entertaining activities such as painting, swimming, and book exchanging. i from \35,000; 95, Usadan-ro 10-gil, Yongsangu; 070 4645 4339; tigerhouseinseoul.com

i 11am-8pm; 257, Itaewon-ro, Yongsan-gu;

02 797 6231

SERIES CORNER This shop offers Korean brands of men’s wear, wood furniture brands by Korean designers,

IMPERIAL PALACE BOUTIQUE HOTEL The hotel offers stylish rooms equipped with high-tech gadgetry such as iPod stations. i from \121,000; 221, Itaewon-ro, Yongsan-gu; 02 3702 8000; ipboutiquehotel.com 23

Dongdaemun The streets of Dongdaemun are illuminated day and night by the sparkling lights of its imposing department stores. The city’s vibrant atmosphere can be seen and felt from the Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP) to the Daehangno area.

BLT STEAK The restaurant located on the 2nd floor of JW Marriott Dongdaemun Square Seoul specializes in New York strip steak made from prime Korean beef dry-aged for two weeks. i strip steak from \115,000; 279, Cheonggyecheon-ro, Jongno-gu; 02 2276 3330 Hyehwa Station

Dongdaemun Station

Dongmyo Station

JANGCHUNG-DONG JOKBAL STREET Among many jokbak restaurants, Wonjo Jangchung-dong Halmeonijip is most recommended. Jokbal is served with various vegetables. i from \30,000; located 50 meters from Exit 3 of the Dongguk University Station (subway line 3)

SOLLAMUGIL DOENJANGYESUL

200

400

Dongdaemun History & Culture Park Station

Sindang Station

m

EAT SINDANGDONG TTEOKBOKKI TOWN Sindang-dong is famous for its tteok-bokki (a snack made Sindang-dong Tteokbokki Town from soft rice cake, fish cake, and red chili sauce) alley. The oldest restaurant here, Ma Bok-lim Tteokbokki serves jeukseok tteok-bokki (tteokbokki boiled on the spot). i from \11,000; 5, Dasan-ro 3-gil, Jung-gu; 02 2232 8930 24

솔나무길 된장예술

The restaurant offers healthy foods cooked with doenjang (Korean Soybean Paste) and tofu. Its specialty is bibimbap with a tasty doenjang stew and various vegetables. i doenjang bibimbap from \9,500; 9-2, Daehakro 11-gil, Jongno-gu; 02 745 4516

SEE NAKSAN PARK Walk from Dongdaemun Gate to Naksan Park, in Hyehwa-dong, on a two-kilometer-long trail along the old fortress wall. i 54, Naksan-gil, Jongno-gu; 02 743 7985

PUNGMUL MARKET This market specializes in Korean folk culture. Specialties from all over the country, craftwork, and traditional foods can be found here. i 10am-7pm; 21, Cheonho-daero 4-gil,

Dongdaemun-gu; 02 2232 3367

HEUNGINJIMUN GATE The original name of Treasured Object No. 1, Dongdaemun, is Heunginjimun. It was the east gate to Seoul’s fortress—one of the eight gates built by King Taejo of the Joseon Dynasty to protect Hanseongbu (the capital of the Joseon Dynasty), where major national infrastructures were concentrated. i 288, Jong-ro, Jongno-gu

DONGDAEMUN DESIGN PLAZA This multi-cultural space designed by worldfamous architect Zaha Hadid holds exhibitions, performances, and fashion shows. It is also home to a fashion design market and a park. i 10am-9pm; admission \8,000; 281, Eulji-ro, Jung-gu; 02 2153 0000; ddp.or.kr

IHWA MURAL VILLAGE Every street corner from Hyehwa-dong to Naksan Park is adorned with pretty wall paintings. Ten artists participated in the project to decorate the old walls and stairs with artistic murals. i Ihwajang-gil, Jongno-gu

SHOP DOOTA This leading fashion mall at Dongdaemun is packed with over 100 shops run by Korean designers. The mall stays open until 5am on Fridays and Saturdays, which makes for some enjoyable late-night shopping. i 10:30am-5am; 275, Jangchungdan-ro, Jung-gu;

02 3398 2386

SHIN PHYEONG HWA FASHION TOWN This fashion market sells a variety of clothes in its five-story building (basem*nt through the 4th floor). Workers in the fashion industry from across Korea come to this mall, where new trends are always created. i 9pm-12pm; 298, Cheonggyecheon-ro, Jung-gu;

02 2253 0714

LOTTE FIT IN The mall has exclusive designer brand shops,

in contrast to the neighboring malls, which deal mostly in local designer brands. Additionally, Lotte Fit In promises the quality and service found in high-end department stores. i 11am-12am; 264, Eulji-ro, Jung-gu; 02 6262 4000

DONGDAEMUN SHOPPING COMPLEX The complex sells fabrics, clothing subsidiary materials, accessories, etc. Most of the domestically distributed fabrics come from this complex. i 8am-6pm (closed on Sundays); 266, Jong-ro,

Jongno-gu; 02 2262 0114

STAY JW MARRIOTT DONGDAEMUN SQUARE SEOUL The hotel is located in the Dongdaemun area, among a concentration of shopping centers. Its rooftop bar offers night views of Heunginjimun Gate and has top-class bartenders. i from \250,000; 279, Cheonggyecheon-ro, Jongno-gu; 02 2276 3000; jwmarriottddm.com

MINARI HOUSE The guesthouse was designed by an artist who also operates a gallery, a cafe, and an artist residency. i from \40,000; 3, Ihwajang 1na-gil, Jongno-gu; 070 8656 3303; minarihouse.com

HANOK JIN HOUSE This hanok guesthouse has rooms decorated with traditional ornaments and furniture. All the rooms are equipped with a kitchen and a bathroom. i from \45,000; 02 0762 7406; 12-24, Jong-ro 65-gil, Jongno-gu; hostelkorea.com

HOTEL TONG VIVACE DONGDAEMUN The hotel offers a perfect location that provides convenient access to main tourist attractions: the DDP, Gwangjang Market, and Cheonggyecheon Stream. i from \70,000; 23, Jong-ro 48-gil, Jongno-gu; 02 747 9710; tonghotel.com/vivace 25

Gangnam This business district is developed around Samseong-dong and Gangnam Subway Station area. In addition, luxurious cafes, restaurants, and department stores are concentrated around the Sinsa-dong, Apgujeong, and Cheongdam-dong neighborhoods. The district also boasts cultural and historical sites such as the Bongeunsa Temple and Seonjeongneung Tombs. boned Beef Short Ribs). i bulgogi \35,000; 835, Eonju-ro, Gangnam-gu; Apgujeong Rodeo Station

02 548 3030

garosu-g

il

FAMILLE STATION About 30 trendy restaurant brands are clustered at this location. Korean food buffet restaurant Olbaan and tteok-bokki restaurant Villa de Spicy are particularly popular.

Gangnam-gu Office Station Hakdong Station

i Central City, 176, Sinbanpo-ro, Seocho-gu;

02 6282 0114

CAFE DIOR BY PIERRE HERME Enjoy the macarons, chocolates, and cakes prepared by French patissier Pierre Herme in the rooftop (5F) cafe of the Christian Dior Boutique. i macaron set \22,000; 464, Apgujeong-ro,

Seolleung Station

Gangnam Station

Gangnam-gu; 02 513 0390 0

200 400 m

EAT

HANCHU 한추 This restaurant is old and shabby, but the taste of its chicken is considered among the best in Seoul. Deep-fried chili peppers, a favorite among regular customers, are also tasty. i fried chicken \17,000; 68, Nonhyeon-ro 175-gil, Gangnam-gu; 02 541 0969

JUNGSIK 정식당 Chef Yim Jung-sik offers an innovative Korean cuisine by cooking Western dishes with Korean ingredients at this restaurant. Both of his restaurants in Seoul and New York are highly recognized. i lunch course from \50,000; 11, Seolleungro, 158-gil, Gangnam-gu; 02 517 4654

SAMWON GARDEN 삼원가든 This restaurant has served top-class meat dishes for more than 30 years. National guests often visit this revered hanok restaurant. Its specialties are bulgogi (Marinated, Barbecued Meat) and yangnyeom galbi (Marinated, De26

GAEHWAOK 개화옥 This Korean food restaurant offers bossam (pork boiled in spices), bulgogi, doenjang jjigae (Soybean Paste Stew), and noodles. All the foods are served in brassware and go great Gaehwaok with wine. i bulgogi \29,700; 7, Apgujeong-ro 50-gil, Gangnam-gu; 02 549 1459

CECI CELA Carrot cake made from fresh milk cream and cheese cream is a must-eat at this patisserie

shop. The cake is offered during limited hours—it is sold only twice a day, at 11am and at 7pm. i carrot cake (piece) \8,800; 10-4, Dosan-daero

about 6,000 artifacts related to gugak. i 9am-6pm; (Closed on Monday); admission free;

2364, Nambusunhwan-ro, Seocho-gu; 02 580 3130; gugak.go.kr

45-gil, Gangnam-gu; 02 3448 7100

LG ART CENTER This is a multi-purpose venue for art expressed in a variety of genres, including performances by world-class artists, dance musicals, theater, and dances.

SEE

i 9am-6pm; 508, Nonhyeon-ro, Gangnam-gu;

SEORAE VILLAGE It is also called the “French Village.” A host of open-air cafes, restaurants, and shops are lined along its streets. Locals hold a Christmas market on the first Saturday of December. i Seorae-ro, Seocho-

gu region, a 10-minute walk from Express Seorae Village

02 2005 0114; lgart.com

SEONJEONGNEUNG TOMBS The tombs of Seongjong (the 9th king of the Joseon Dynasty), his second wife Queen Jeonghyeon, and his son Jungjong (the 11th king of the Joseon Dynasty) are collectively called Seonjeongneung. i 6am-9pm; 1, Seolleung-ro 100-gil, Gangnam-

gu; 02 568 1291

SHOP

Bus Terminal Subway Station

DOSAN PARK The park was built to honor the patriotism and passion for public education of Dosan Ahn Chang-ho. The Horim Art Center, located near the park, is known for its gorgeous building that resembles a comb-pattern piece of pottery. i20, Dosan-daero, 45-gil, Gangnam-gu;

02 541 3525

BONGEUNSA TEMPLE This Buddhist temple with a history of over 1,000 years houses valuable Buddhist cultural items. The temple operates Temple Stay programs that allow relaxation of body and mind in beautiful surroundings of hanok nestled in peaceful gardens. i 531, Bongeunsa-ro, Gangnam-gu; 02 3218 4800;

bongeunsa.org

SSG FOOD MARKET & MY BOON This high-end food market sells rare imported ingredients and has a selection shop with fashion brands from overseas designers. i 10am-10pm; 442, Dosan-daero, Gangnam-gu;

1588 1234

10 CORSO COMO The shop deals in an exclusive selection of international fashion brands. It is a favorite among Korean celebrities, and it has a cafe that serves meals and desserts. i 11am-8pm; 416, Apgujeong-ro, Gangnam-gu;

02 3018 1010

COEX MALL & PARNAS MALL The largest shopping mall in Gangnam showcases famous brands from home and abroad. SMTOWN Coex Artium, a Hallyu center, is located next to the mall. i 10:30am-10pm; 513, Yeongdong-daero,

NATIONAL GUGAK CENTER This is Korea’s first gugak (traditional Korean music) museum. It opened in 1995 and it has

Gangnam-gu; 02 6002 5300

27

GALLERIA DEPARTMENT STORE The east building of the department store deals in top luxury brands, while the west building offers casual brands. Popular restaurants such as Gourmet 494 are located in the basem*nt food mall. i 10:30am-8pm; 407, Apgujeong-ro, Gangnam-

gu; 02 3449 4114

HYUNDAI DEPARTMENT STORE The department store is directly connected to the Apgujeong Subway Station, so it is convenient to access by public transportation. Here you can pay in dollars, yuan, or yen. i 10:30am-8pm; 165, Apgujeong-ro, Gangnam-

gu; 02 547 2233

LINE FRIENDS FLAGSHIP STORE The shop sells more than 2,000 items, including stationery, accessories, and dolls inspired by on-line messenger LINE characters. i 10:30am-9:30pm; 27, Dosan-daero 13-gil,

Gangnam-gu; 02 3448 1764

i from \224,000; 130, Bongeunsa-ro, Gangnam-

gu; 02 567 1101;ambatel.com/gangnam

THE GRAND INTERCONTINENTAL SEOUL PARNAS The hotel operates a business center and a computer station for business tourists, and is close to the Hyundai Department Store and Coex Mall. i from \310,000; 521, Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu; 02 555 5656; grandicparnas.com

IMPERIAL PALACE SEOUL This European-style business hotel operates free shuttle buses to neighboring sights such as the Dosan Park and the Museum of Korean Embroidery. i from \241,000; 640, Eonju-ro, Gangnam-gu; 02 3440 8000; imperialpalace.co.kr

RITZ CARLTON SEOUL The hotel is located near the Gangnam and Sin Nonhyeon subway stations, so it can be easily accessed via public transportation. Staff welcome the hotel’s guests in traditional Korean costumes. i from \38,000; 120, Bongeunsa-ro, Gangnamgu; 02 3451 8000; ritzcarltonseoul.com

LINE Friends Flagship Store

STAY

PARK HYATT SEOUL The hotel is located at the center of Gangnam, near tourist attractions such as the Coex Mall and Bongeunsa Temple. The hotel’s restaurant is well known for its brunch menu. i from \420,000; 606, Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu; 02 2016 1234; seoul.park.hyatt.kr

HOTEL LA CASA This boutique hotel, located on Garosu-gil Street, is operated by Korean lifestyle shop Casamia. Rooms are decorated with stylish furniture. i from \166,000; 83, Dosan-daero 1-gil, Gangnam-gu; 02 546 0088; hotellacasa.kr

NOVOTEL AMBASSADOR GANGNAM This five-star hotel is equipped with facilities that include a European and a Japanese restaurant. 28

Park Hyatt Seoul

Other Areas Areas such as Yeouido, Yeongdeungpo, and Jamsil also contain unique aspects of Seoul. Experience the engaging attractions of these destinations, from large shopping malls and restaurants to theme parks, and even a national park.

EAT PAJEON ALLEY; KYUNG HEE UNIVERSITY Many restaurants around the university town serve pajeon (pancake-like Korean dish made with green onions, various seafood, and vegetables), which goes well with makgeolli. Haemul pajeon (Seafood Pajeon) is popular here. i haemul pajeon \7,000; 3, Hoegi-ro 28-gil, Dongdaemun-gu; 02 968 2494

SILLIM-DONG SUNDAE TOWN Sundae is a Korean dish made by boiling or steaming cow’s or pig’s intestines that have been stuffed with various ingredients. The locale is known for sundae bokkeum (Stir-fried Korean Blood Sausage). You can choose either baek sundae (non-spicy) or yangnyeom sundae (gochujang sauce added). i Sundae bokkeum \7,500; Subway Line 2 Sillim Station Exit 3

SEE

JINJUJIP 진주집 When the cold wind starts to blow during the winter season, Koreans love to eat dak kalguksu (Noodle Soup with Chicken), a dish made with generousamounts of chicken meat and dumplings. i dak kalguksu \7,000; 33, Gukjegeumyung-ro

BUKHANSAN NATIONAL PARK This mountain’s proximity to Seoul makes it easy to visit. Hiking trails departing from Pyeongchang-dong or Gupabal offer scenic views and are suitable for beginners.

6-gil, Yeongdeungpo-gu; 02 780 6108

bukhan.knps.or.kr

WALKING ON THE CLOUD This European-style restaurant with a Mediterranean twist is located on the 59th floor of the 63 Building. Its menu includes prime tenderloin steak and lobster dishes. The restaurant also operates a bar with a cozy mood. i lunch course from \49,000; 50, 63-ro,

DREAM FOREST This large green park measuring 660,000m2 hosts the Dream Forest Art Center, a performance complex comprising a performance hall, a concert hall, cafes, and restaurants.

i 262, Bogukmun-ro, Seongbuk-gu; 02 909 0494;

i 173, Wolgye-ro, Gangbuk-gu; 02 2289 4001;

dreamforest.seoul.go.kr

Yeongdeungpo-gu; 02 789 5904

NORYANGJIN FISH MARKET Just about every kind of seafood, brought from all parts of the country, is auctioned at this market. Here you can buy your seafood selection and have it cooked and served at one of the restaurants on the upper floor. i open 24 hours (closed on Sundays); 688,

Nodeul-ro, Dongjak-gu; 02 814 2211

LOTTE WORLD This is the most spacious indoor amusem*nt park in Korea. Enjoy thrilling rides during the day and fancy parades in the evening. i 9am-10pm; one-day pass \48,000; 240, Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu; 1661 2000

63 BUILDING This skyscraper provides fantastic views over 29

Seoul. A gallery, a movie theater, and famous restaurants are also located in the building. i 10am-10pm; 50, 63-ro, Yeongdeungpo-gu;

02 789 5663; 63.co.kr

HANGANG E-LAND CRUISE Hop on this cruise in Yeouido and enjoy a live concert, a great meal, and terrific night views of the Hangang River and the city. i 11:30am-9:20pm; from \12,000; Yeouido Quay (280 Yeouido-ro, Yeongdeungpo-gu);02 3271 6900; elandcruise.com

DIGITAL MEDIA CITY (DMC) Watch exhibitions that combine IT technology with culture content based on high-tech digital media. i 10am-6pm (closed on Sundays); 366, World

Cup buk-ro, Mapo-gu; 02 309 7067; dmc.seoul.kr

SHOP

TIMES SQUARE This entertainment and culture complex comprises the Shinsegae Department Store, movie theaters, a large bookstore, a theme park for kids, and a live concert pub. i 10:30am-10pm; 15, Yeongjung-ro,

Yeongdeungpo-gu; 02 238 2000

LOTTE WORLD MALL This mall is located in a mega-sized skyscraper and is packed with fashion, furniture, and electronics shops, a large mart, duty free shops, and the largest aquarium in Korea. i 10:30am-10pm; 300, Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu;

02 3213 5000

STAY CONRAD SEOUL HOTEL The hotel has a perfect location for easy access to neighboring tourist attractions such as the Yeouido Hangang Park, IFC Mall, Noryangjin Fish Market, Times Square, and 63 Building. i from \400,000; 10, Gukjegeumyung-ro, Yeongdeungpo-gu; 02 6137 7000; conradseoul. co.kr

IFC Mall

IFC MALL This large mall occupying in the 1st through the 3rd basem*nt levels of the Yeouido IFC Building houses fashion and cosmetic shops, a movie theater complex, and restaurants. i 10am-10pm; 10, Gukjegeumyung-ro,

Yeongdeungpo-gu; 02 6137 5000

D-CUBE CITY This multi-cultural space has a hotel, a department store, a theater for musical performances, as well as offices and a residential area. Experience a variety of cultural activities and shopping in one location.

HOTEL LOFT Pick your favorite style from among 14 rooms decorated in various themes, from classical to funky. i from \200,000; 72, Seonyudong 2-ro, Yeongdeungpo-gu; 02 2671 9996; hotel-loft.co.kr

LOTTE HOTEL WORLD This hotel is directly connected to Lotte World and provides easy access to the Lotte World Mall and Songpa Naru Park, making it a convenient accommodation choice. i from \260,000; 240, Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu; 02 419 7000; lottehotel.com/world

i 11am-9:30pm.; 662, Gyeongin-ro, Guro-gu;

W SEOUL WALKERHILL One of the city’s best-designed hotels, the ‘W’ offers rooms with Hangang River or mountain views. i from \295,000; 177, Walkerhill-ro, Gwangjin-

02 2622 2233

gu; 02 465 2222; wseoul.com

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Gangbuk-gu

Seongbuk-gu Jungnang-gu

Eunpyeong-gu

Jongno-gu Dongdaemun-gu

Seodaemun-gu

Mapo-gu

Gwangjin-gu Jung-gu

Seongdong-gu

Gangseo-gu

Yeongdeungpo-gu Yongsan-gu

Yangcheon-gu

Songpa-gu Guro-gu

Gangnam-gu

Dongjak-gu

Seocho-gu Gwanak-gu Geumcheon-gu

Index A

aA Design Museum Cafe Antique Furniture Street

B

Balwoo Gongyang 14 Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul 19 Beaker Hannam Flagship Store 23 Bistecca 22 BLT Steak 24 Bongeunsa Temple 27 Bukchon Hanok Village 15 Bukhansan National Park 29

C

D

20 22

Cafe Dior by Pierre Herme Ceci Cela Changdeokgung Changgyeonggung Cheonggyecheon Club FF Coex Mall & Parnas Mall Conrad Seoul Hotel Culture Station Seoul 284

26 26 15 15 15 21 27 30 18

Dawon D-Cube City Digital Media City (DMC) Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP) Dongdaemun Shopping Complex Dongjin Market Doota Dosan Park Dream Forest

15 30 30

25 21 25 27 29

Famille Station

26

G

G Guesthouse Gaehwaok Galleria Department Store Gogung Grand Hyatt Seoul Gwanghwamun Square Gwangjang Market Gyeongbokgung

23 26 28 14 23 15 14 15

Hadongkwan Haebangchon Art Village Hanchu Hangang E-Land Cruise Hanok Jin House Heunginjimun Gate Hongdae Free Market Hotel La Casa Hotel Loft Hotel Lotte World Hotel the Designers Hotel Tong Vivace Dongdaemun Hyundai Department Store

17 23 26 30 25 25 21 28 30 30 21

32

J

25 28

IFC Mall 30 Ihwa Mural Village 25 Imperial Palace Boutique Hotel 23 Imperial Palace Seoul 28 Insadong Maru 16 Jaha Sonmandu 14 Jangchung-dong Jokbal Street 24 Jingogae 17 Jinjujip 29 Jogyesa Temple 15 Jongmyo Royal Shrine 15 Jungsik 26 JW Marriot Dongdaemun Square Seoul 25

K

KCDF Gallery Kiehl’s Boutique KT&G SangsangMadang Kyobo Book Center

16 16 21 16

L

LG Art Center LINE Friends Flagship Store Linus BBQ Lotte Department Store & Duty Free Shop Lotte Fit In Lotte World Lotte World Mall

27 28 22

25

F

H

I

M

N

O

O Sulloc Tea House Olive Young Flagship Store

P

Pajeon Alley near Kyung Hee University 29 Park Hyatt Seoul 28 Pungmul Market 24

R

Rakkojae Ritz Carlton Seoul

S

Samgeori Pujutgan 20 Samwon Garden 26 Seonjeongneung 27 Seorae Village 27 Seoul Backpackers 19 Seoul Central Masjid & Gyedan Market 23 Seoul Plaza 15 Series Corner 23 Shilla Duty Free Shop 19 Shilla Hotel Seoul 19 Shin Phyeong hwa Fashion Town 25 Shinsegae Department Store 19 Sillim-dong Sundae Town 29 Sinchon Play Bus 21 Sindangdong Tteokbokki Town 24 Slobbie 20 Small House Big Door 19 Sollamugil Doenjangyesul 24 Somerset Palace Seoul 16 Ssamzie-gil 16 SSG Food Market & My Boon27 Stylenanda Flagship Store 21 Sungnyemun 18

T

Taco Chilichili Thanks Books The Grand InterContinental Seoul Parnas The National Museum of Contemporary Art, Seoul The Plaza Hotel The Westin Chosun Seoul Tiger House Times Square Tongin Market Tosokchon

18 25 29 30

Maruji Guesthouse 21 Maybell Bakery 22 Mecenat Polis Mall 21 Metro Hotel 19 Millimeter Milligram (MMMG) 23 Minari House 25 Mmmio House 16 MO Jain Song 23 Mokmyeoksanbang 17 Mudaeruk 20 Muldwinda 20 Myeong-dong Cathedral 18 Myeong-dong Gyoja 17 Myeonggajae 16 N Grill 17 N Seoul Tower 18 Naksan Park 24 Namdaemun Market 18 Namsangol Hanok Village 18 National Gugak Center 27 National Museum of Korea 23 National Theater of Korea 18 Noon Square 18 Noryangjin Fish Market 29 Novotel Ambassador Gangnam 28

17 19

16 28

22 21 28 15 16 16 23 30 14 14

U

Urbanwood Guesthouse

21

V

Vatos

22

W

W Seoul Walkerhill Walking on the Cloud Western China

30 29 22

Etc 10 Corso Como 63 Building

27 29

ADVENTIsem*nT FEATURE

What’s the Best Souvenir in Korea?

Red ginseng, Korea’s representative specialty, korea8.kgc.co.kr encounters 8 best spots in Korea! Korean Red Ginseng Extract MEMORIES IN KOREA

The Korean Red Ginseng Extract Tour Edition, 8 Memories In Korea 1. Changdeokgung Palace Virtue The Changdeokgung Palace, one of the most representative architectures in East Asia, is the king’s garden. 2. Andong Hahoe Folk Village Joy This traditional village where the Joseon Dynasty’s Confucian tradition is carried on in modern lifestyles, is a living legacy. • Eight

historical, cultural and natural spots in Korea elaborately printed on each bottle! • Best choice for cherishing memories of your trip to Korea! • The combination of health and tourist spots makes perfect presents for your beloved ones! The Korean Red Ginseng Extract Tour Edition, made of 100 percent red ginseng extract, offers enhanced value as a travel souvenir, as each of the eight Korean Red Ginseng Extract bottles (30g ea.) is matched with one of Korea’s eight tourist spots. When all of the eight bottles are put together, a whole landscape painting is completed. Scan the QR code with your mobile phone to get information on the tourist spots in Chinese and English with ease. The products are available at duty-free shops in Korea. MSRP 264,000 won

Korean Red Ginseng Extract Cheong-Kwan-Jang has been certified as “The World No.1 Ginseng Brand” in the category of Ginseng Brand by Euromonitor International. Ltd. Korean Red Ginseng Extract is Korea’s No. 1 health functional food and has excellent remedial effects such as enhancing the immune system and boosting energy and endurance. In particular, the Red Ginseng Extract is a product that contains a variety of wellbalanced and effective components by using concentrated extracts from high-quality, six-year-old ginseng roots, based on top-notch manufacturing technology built for 100 years.

3. Bulguksa Temple & Seokgulam Grotto Longevity Ancient people’s dream of good health and longevity resides in the Bulguka Temple and the Seokguram Grotto in Gyeongju, the capital of a thousand year kingdom. 4. National Museum of Korea Development Encounter the humankind’s creativity and development at the treasure house of Korea’s 5,000 years of history and culture. 5. Seoul City Wall & Sungnyemun Gate Prosperity On the roads along the old fortress wall of Seoul, a heaven-sent capital city, unfold the prosperity and glory of the 600-year-old capital. 6. Seoraksan National Park Beauty The Seoraksan National Park is full of scenic beauties in which graceful terrains are in harmony with snow-covered rock formations, clear stream water and small hermitages. 7. Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak Luck The sun rising beyond a natural citadel created by the explosion of an underwater volcano on the blue waters of Jeju Island is special and precious. 8. Hangang River Romance Seoul’s lifeline where romance flows at nightfall, when the bridges on the Hangang River are lighted up one by one and river cruises preparing to sail away, the city changes into romantic dress.

www.kgc.co.kr 33

Seoul Insider’s Guide

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